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The page shown when creating a deck

Decks are what you use to battle in Cards and Castles.

Creating a Deck[edit | edit source]

When creating a deck you must choose at least 1 (at most 2) of the six factions: Vikings, Crusaders, Pirates, Warlocks, Druids and Ninjas.

Once chosen, you will be taken to a screen that showcases your collection of cards of your two chosen faction and the Neutral faction. You will choose 50 cards, with no more than 3 cards of any one single card.

Some things to keep in mind:

1) You need units. New players will often be amazed at the cool spells they can use, and the combos they can make, while neglecting the fact that if they run out of units, those spells are useless.

2) Watch the curve. Stuffing your deck with too many cheap or expensive cards can make your deck useless. If you can't maintain control throughout the game, you will not win at the higher tiers, no matter how strong your early, mid, of late-game may be.

3) Know your timeline. Knowing what should happen at the 1-4, 4-6, an 6-10 range allows you to understand what is making your deck suffer.

4) Careful with buildings. Utility buildings like Church can be far stronger than they appear, and buff buildings like Armory can be incredibly powerful as the game goes on. However, they are often expensive and fragile, and depending on them is a bad idea.

5) It's not always about the Castle. Sometimes having a Fencer of Poison Drake hit the Castle can be incredibly satisfying, but other times you might want them to kill that Sea Witch instead, even though you know they will die the next turn. When do you want to do this and why? Although the goal of the game is to destroy the Castle, games usually last long enough that even if an opponent is at 8 health while you're at 20 before turn 6, you can still lose very easily. Why? Well if you ignore, say, their Armory, or their Sea Witch, when the opponent destroys that oh-so-powerful unit you had hit their Castle, you'll be running on empty while they push forward with an army of Skeletons or units that always 1/1 up you (get it?). If you have an early game lead, but you know your deck works better in the late-game, it's usually better to kill buildings and worrisome units early on so that your late-game isn't beaten out by theirs so your Ronin could get that one hit.

Pre-Constructed Decks[edit | edit source]

Pre-Constructed Decks can be purchased in the shop and used as-is or customized.

Different Deck Types[edit | edit source]

Decks can be built around different archetypes, for example: Knight, Dragon, Undead, Beast and Monster.

Dragon[edit | edit source]

Dragon decks are focused off of playing as many Dragons as they can, using cards like Dragon Taming to constantly have a supply of Dragons, then using cards like Dragon Temple and Hardened Scales to buff the Dragons. Suggested Factions: Viking and Crusader

Another variation known as the Casino Dragon is based off of putting as many legendary Dragons as you can into your deck, and then using Search for the Truth to hopefully find them and get them for free.

Cost: You can make an okay Dragon deck on a budget, but in general it is pretty Legendary/Epic dependent, unless you wish to incorporate other elements into the deck.

Aura Knight[edit | edit source]

Stronger together thanks to their lack of cards, Aura Knight decks use Knights as well as Auras like Primordial Flame to create walking bombs. Cards like Flame Shield make even the Earth Knight something to be worried about, and cards like Pacifism can extend their lifespan by a large amount. Ensuring that you don't run out of units is crucial in this deck, and because of the way they attack, staying on defense for too long can allow the opponent to create an army that even your powerful Auras will never destroy. Suggested Faction: Crusaders/Warlocks

Cost: Fairly decent on a budget. Depends more on Epic cards than Legendary. Good if you're new, but just got a batch of new cards from a pack.

Undead[edit | edit source]

Undead decks focus on swarming the enemy with a mass of many low stat units. Players will often buff these units with spells or buildings, making it almost impossible to fend off near end-game. A more fast-paced style of this involves playing as many as you can with cards like Army of the Damned and then using Vampire to bring incredible pressure on the board. Suggested Factions: Warlocks and Pirates

Cost: Very good on a budget. Legendary cards like Eternal Darkness and Rakanoth give it an edge, but are not necessary if well constructed. Suggested for beginners.

Monster[edit | edit source]

Monster decks focus on buffing units that have the innate ability to increase their stats each time a monster is summoned such as Behemothra or Hasan City Colossus. A starting Monster player will focus on getting their Behemothra of Colossus out as soon as possible while using other Monsters to keep the opponent from forming any real threat, then using their own judgement to decide when to push up. Kraken should be saved for when the Colossus or Behemothra dies to hold momentum. At a more experienced level, players with more cards will use either Behemothra or Colossus as soon as possible, using Nalakir Ajeera to give quick buffs to them. Keeping at least one of these alive at all times is imperative so as to warn the opponent from using the Monsters Nalakir Ajeera gave them too quickly. The glaring difference between new and experienced Monster players is that the experienced player is not as dependent on Behemothra. Upon reaching 7 gold, King Kaiju and Kraken give horrifying pressure when flanked bye Behemothra and Colossus. King Crab also gives a good source of removal, should the opponent get close enough, and Minotaur can do this as well. Suggested factions: Crusaders and Pirates

Cost: Very Legendary dependent. Useless on a tight budget, requires at least 3 Behemothras if you have nothing else to be somewhat competent. Use if you recently got King Kaiju or Kraken, but not if you don't have the right cards.

Player-made Decks[edit | edit source]